•  “About 85% of our work is historic preservation…the 2-part epoxy comes in handy when saving original parts. Try it. The price is right.” Mark Ihm, IHM Builders, Platteville, WI

•  (What I like about Smith & Co. is) “Dealing with people who actually know their product…they are as advertised—which is exceptional these days.” D. M.

•  “I have used it (CPES) on (boat) bottoms as well as almost everything else. It does two things very well. Firstly it soaks into the wood gluing the grain together and taking up space that water can not. Secondly, because it is ‘part of the wood’ now it is the perfect ‘primer’ or paint base.” R. W.

•  “For one season I used CPES simply as a primer on some areas of my boats hull where paint wouldn’t stick, (mostly due to oil-soaked wood. The stuff worked great. I’m restoring the boat now with a new bottom, and let me tell you, it was tough getting the paint off where I had primed with CPES.” R. V.

•  (What we like about Smith & Co. products is that) “They work--No glue failures. Better guitar finish adhesion. Secure fingerboard glue joint.” MTD

•  “I don’t have to worry about Cocobolo [a kind of wood] guitars coming apart.” [ Another guitar-maker ]

•  “Try Smith’s CPES. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. It is great stuff and the ultimate product for sealing wood. Apply 3 coats of CPES. You just keep brushing the stuff on until the wood won’t take any more. Before the third coat is completely cured (1/2 cure time roughly) put on your first coat of varnish. That way the varnish is glued down and will not lift.” JB

•  “I had a couple of shaft logs (wood around where the propeller shafts go from inside to outside the boat) with electrolysis damage, a 1964 36 foot cruiser with twin 283s {cubic inch engines}. What this means is that the fibers were there but there was nothing holding them together. Well, not that bad, but not that good, either, so…I got to thinking and reading, and came up with a plan. If I could dry out those shaft logs, they would soak up CPES like a sponge. The flexible nature of CPES would be a close approximation of the Lignum {the natural glue in wood that holds the fibers together} that was damaged by the electrolysis. Great theory, but how to test...Well, I had an old hunk of rotting wood that was crumbling to bits before me. I soaked it, and looked at the result. It was much better than I expected, and the test material was much worse than the shaft logs...I decided to go forward…I soaked it but good…the next day …I saturated it a second time. Now, due to work, I was out of town for a week, so when I came back it was done. WOW! Solid wood, that was not “crispy” like W*** Systems stuff. I was able to run screws in it, and there was no cracking. The end result was, I spent two weeks and saved $10,000.” C. C.

•  “We love all your products. The Clear Penetrating Epoxy sealer has helped us to repair instead of replace our decking. I tell everyone I talk to about your products…” Sandra Kash

•  “thanks …especially to s smith and co. for the fine products that I purchased from them that came thru just as he said they would, cpes, fill-it .”      T. P.

•  “I have used the (CPES) on my boat, the “Vixen”, built in 1904, houseboat, and house—the dry rot bugs hate me for it. My next project is my decaying molar, but Mr. Smith has reservations.” H. O.

•  “Up here we have two Glouster Gulls built at the same time, same quality of wood, and same paint for the final finish. One was CPES’d and spent not only her first summer, but also her first winter on the beach. The other was just painted and stored indoors after a summer on the beach. The CPES’d hull did not even need touch-up for four or five years. The other hull did what plywood does...” I. M.

•  “I glassed the outside of my dory and painted the inside, after coating in and out with 2 or 3 layers of CPES. A friend’s dory built at the exact same time is glassed outside, painted inside, but no CPES was used. My boat shows no signs of checking but his is badly checked after one season. Both boats are stored exposed and get bailed out after it rains, although sometimes a couple three days after. I’m worried for his dory as water must be getting in the checks. Mine is tight as a duck’s butt.”    W. B.

• MY SUCCESS STORY

I’ve been in the “Period House” restoration business for more than 25 years, and to save old windows and doors and other period house architectural items,

I learned real early that just because there was some rot, I did not have to throw out a window sash or architectural trim, if I use Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer [CPES] and Fill-It Epoxy Filler.

I was turned on to the product by friends in the boat work business. It is my policy to use CPES on all areas wherever I’ve removed rot and fill joints and end grain with Fill-It Epoxy Filler, especially exterior exposed wood areas.

The filler is easily shaped, sanded and painted. My customers are surprised how strong and secure their doors and windows are after I use Fill-It and they can’t see the repair once painted.

I could not stay in business without Smith’s epoxy systems.

David T. Clark I Do Windows And Doors—Sacramento CA 916-498-1570   

P. S. All parts are a 50/50 or 1 to 1 part mixing schedule, which makes it easy, and the long pot life is very user-friendly as well.

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